Hiking from Changu Narayan to Bhaktapur
Changu Narayan –
25th Aug 2007
Manish Shrestha, Shankar Upreti, Tejaswee Sharma, Rupa Aryal, Rajendra Subedi, Shamesh Joshi, Sujan Gautam, Shailee Gorkhali, Sita Pun, Anish Vaidya, Manindra Raj Joshi, Binay Aryal, Nishchal Shrestha
BinayaA, NischalS, ShameshJ, RupaA, RajendraS, SujanG, ShaileeG, SitaP, ManishS, TejsweeS, AnishV, ShankarU, ManindraJ, and 4 other friends of BinayaA
Place: Changu Narayan, Bhaktapur
Date: 25th August 2007
Report: Shamesh Joshi
Creative Support: NishchalS
The journey to the Changu, the path of Mokshya, a skip from a monotonous rush hour. It was Saturday morning, 25th of august, 2007, a team of 17 enthusiastic novice trying of feel the past, our ancestors and their presence, started the journey of the Great Changu Narayan temple situated on the beautiful peaceful location of 1541 meter height, 24 Km from Kathmandu. It was no time we reached the lap of nature, warmth of culture, our Changu. The air was fresh; the climate was pleasant, greenery around us and a feeling of freedom. We team landed on the base of Changu, the world heritage site, early in the morning.
With our gear packed, we climb our steps toward the marvelous court yard of Changu Narayan Temple. The path was full of creative hands and busy faces. Old as well as young were enjoying the moment. Life full of struggle but no sign of disappointments. We were amazed to feel the strength beneath those calm faces. So near to the city, yet living their own world.
The Changu area seems to live the legend. Yhe, a legend since 4th Century when King Hari Dutta Verma (according to The Gopal Raj Vamsavali, the oldest chronicle of country) built the Changu Narayan temple along with three other temples at the four cardinal directions of the Kathmandu valley, dedicated to the Hindu God Narayan. The other Vaisnavait temples, he had built were the temples of SESA NARAYANA, BISHANKHU NARAYANA and ICHANGU NARAYANA respectively.
It has many old outstanding stone, wood, and metal carvings dating from the Lichhavai period. On the intricately carved painted roof struts of the temple are intricate carvings of the ten incarnations of Vishnu and goddesses.
King Mana Dev added a commemorative, a huge stone pillar on the north-western corner of the Changu Narayana temple, intending to immortalize the great victories made by him during his life time, in 464 AD.
A life size 5th century statue of Garuda, the carrier of Lord Vishnu kneels with his hands folded before the temple. Besides Garuda is one of the oldest Licchavi stone inscriptions. In front of the temple here is a statue of kneeling King Bhupatindra Malla and his queen.
There is a sixth century stone statue of Vishnu Viswarup, the universal form of Lord Vishnu that Lord Krishna showed Arjuna while speaking the Bhagavad Gita.
On the Lakshmi Narayan Temple there is an 8th century statue of six-armed Trivikratha (Lord Vamana), and next to it is a statue of Lord Narasimha, the man-lion incarnation of Lord Vishnu. Behind the last two statues is a little black slab that has an image of Narayan lying on the traditional serpent Ananta and above it Lord Vishnu with 10 arms and heads. In the northwest corner of the courtyard is a sculpture of Lord Vishnu riding on Garuda, which is on the Rs 10 Nepali banknote. Above the main door is Lord Vishnu holding his four symbols.
The beautifully gilded door is guarded by stone lions of it and has intricate gilded windows on either side. On four pillars in the four corners are the symbols representing Lord Vishnu: the chakra (disc) and conch shell, the lotus (padma), and club (gada).
It is said that, During the Mila Punhi festival, held on the full moon day of the month of Magh (Jan/Feb), the silver kalash of the Deity is carried in procession. To be greeted by the Goddess Kumari at the Taleju Temple, in Kathmandu.
Our hunger was increasing seconds by seconds; we were running like insane, every peace of art was better than the next. Oh, an open museum. It was like spirit of our ancestor.
Though the place was incredible, the place need much attention, It needs to be preserved, protected, for us, for our children to tell the tales of our parents. The palace surrounding the temple seemed neglected, the Big bell calling for eternal peace has cracks on it, our ancestor praying lacks head, oh, it needs to feel safe and it’s our duty to make them feel safe.
I would like to appreciate a private museum owner who had tried to preserve our history, the way of living, our past. I was amazed to find coin collections since the very first Manaxya, a leather coin of King Mana Dev to the 5000 Rs Coin of King Birendra. The museum also had various other collections of ancient house hold equipments, generally used tools, and many more.
Its time to return home, it was a memorable morning, and feel like we enjoyed every bit of it. I promise to return Changu once again with same enthusiasm, same passion and with extra inner energy.
01 gate of changunarayan
02 Stone Tap
03 Stairs to Changu Narayan Temple
04 Front View of Changu
05 From right side
07 North West View
08 Are those for child
09 Carved doors guarded by Sadhe (Bulls)
10 West face of temple
11 Tepa (water collection)
12 Another Drying Maize
13 Art of Anscestors
14 Big Bell (shows lack of maintenance)
16 Colors of Changu
17 Durga Temple
19 Creaive Hands 2
20 Creative Hands
21 Hatti, Guarding Elephant
22 Head has been stolen
23 Renovated Carved Window
25 One of the oldest house of Changu
28 Shila Lekh
29 Stone Ctaft with Narayan and Naags
30 Thru' the window of Palace
31 Time Pass
32 Wheel of Time
33 Wind Bells
34 Dark, abandon part of palace
35 Crew members
36 local house
37 Makkai Batmas(gold)
39 Piece of Art
40 Saraswatimata Yumahangma English Secondary School
41 Changu Museum
42 Alla Thala (Alcohol pot)
43 Coins of Mandev
44 Coins of Yognarendra
45 First Nepali Coin, Manaxya
46 Taan, weaving machine
48 Children learning for cultural song
49 Local women
50 Tamra Patra (old inscript written in Tama-Copper)
51 tells the story of ages
52 Changu Basti
53 Changu Villege
54 Flow Chart to get permission to build new house.
55 Instruments of Nepal
56 Local children
57 Free Fly
59 Bhala, used during wars
60 Century Old Amazing Abstract Art- Lion that can Fly with Beak and Two Horn over the Head
61 Century Old Statue
62 Crafted Beam (clouds)
64 Fishing Equipments
65 Hatiyars, Iron swords
66 House Utilities
67 Incomplete Statue
68 Leather Money Bag
68 Protective shield made by Rhino skin(Bullet proof)
69 Struts of Bhramha and Vishnu
71 Tikkai Jhyal (Crafted Window)
72 Used to make Alcohol
73 Wooden water drainage, where washed plates are kept. Century old method.
74 Wooden rod to produce bitten rice (Cheura)