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Hiking from Nepalthok to Dumja

Participants: SharadP, NishchalS, BhanuC, Vishnu and SangharshaB
Route: Nepalthok to Dumja to Nepalthok
Date: Sunday, August 12, 2007
Duration: 4 hours
Trip Doom: 12-Kilometers
Report: SangharshaB
Photo: NishchalS, Vishnu
Creative Support: NishchalS

Rain came as a guest that morning, and in the midst of rain, cold weather and the weekend, for a second I thought whether I should join the hike or not, but for my first hike in D2, without having any further dilemma, I started packing up and I moved ahead.

When all of us met in the office premises, it was already 7 am, and soon we set out for the trip.
Our destination for the hike: Bhakundebesi; well, I’d never heard of this place before, at least for the details. When the route continued, we went through Koteshwor, Suryabinayak, Banepa, Dhulikhel and ahead. I’ve been up to Dhulikhel on this route so far.The real marvel began once we took a right turn from Dhulikhel. Unforgettable scenery, mist covered curved road with greenery all around. We could see some villages at distant when the mist accidentally cleared up – ideal looking small villages beside a small river. Sounds like a description of a painting. 

Bhakundebesi, a new place for us all, was a really beautiful place. As an attraction point, we’d heard about a temple in Bhakundebesi where the worshipping continued for 24 hours a day, non stop.
However, we suddenly changed our mind about the hike destination, once we reached there, as the temple seemed to be very short distance to make a good hike. We asked the school kids walking by the road to school, they said “chheu chheu Roshi, tala pugera Koshi, ani tespachi last ma Nepalthok” (just go side by side with Roshi river you will reach the Koshi river, and finally you’ll reach Nepalthok). Thus, we rather thought of moving ahead towards Nepalthok, almost 31kms ahead. The road was still enchanting and in good condition. We reached Nepalthok at around 11am. Surprisingly, the road appeared as a dead end. FYI, it’s an alternate highway which links Kathmandu valley with the Terai. Two ways construction work has been carried out, one from Bardibas and the other from Dhulikhel, and still 33 KMs of road had to be built to complete the high-way between Nepalthok and Sindhuli, with 14 bridges to be built.

Surprisingly Nepalthok itself appeared to be a small village, but with lots of nearby villagers’ moving through, it appeared as future Mungling for that area. We got our lunch arranged in a nearby hotel and started the real hike from that point (514 mtr) with a steep hill looking at us from the top. We planned to reach the top and circle it around, through the village called Dumja (1154mtr). Starting from a rough track, and then through a foot trail, we reached Dumja at 1.30pm. Dumja is a beautiful village situated in Sindhuli at the border of two districts: Kavrepalanchok, and Ramechhap; we could see the three districts in the horizon in three directions.

There was an old man standing nearby the trail.
– “Hajur baa, kati barsha ko hunu bho?” [Hello grandfather, how old are you?]
– “Chauraasi!” [Eighty-four]
Oh my god, eighty-four years! guys see the man’s face at once. We were all surprised. He looked so healthy and energetic that his age was unbelievable. For one more surprise, Mr. Rudra P. Koirala turned out to be a friend of Matrika P. Koirala, brother of B P Koirala & Girija P. Koirala. In fact, he was a relative of the Koirala family and he now owned the property of the PM’s family. It was the birthplace of B.P. Koirala’s father Krishna P. Koirala, and in this sense, thus it became a historical place as well. He showed some of the hibiscus flowers tree originally planted by K.P. Koirala, which he has preserved as a token of memory, and could be a proposed place to erect a statue of Krishna P. Koirala if his son Girija bring Nepal in right stream for Nepalese also.

Our descent started at around 1.45 towards Nepalthok through a different route, circling the peak. In the rain, it was a comfortable descent, even though we lost the main track for few minutes, and finally we dared to take a path of a landslide, unknowingly assuming it as the main trail.

Our lunch with champagne was amazing, with a story of a cloth businessman who went bankrupt and started hotel business in Nepalthok. After the late lunch, we returned with a tired body but refreshed mind.

Off the hook:
“Why do they put up the dried maize shoots in a cone structure preserved for future use” – For firewood (no way), for cattle feeding (do they eat the dried twig?), or may be it was for the cattle-sheds. We were curious all the time. Never saw those structures before.
And while we returned, we stopped by and asked a lady beside the road about the maize-dried twig structures. She said it was for feeding.
– “Didi, yo makai ko sukeko dhod lai kina yesari rakheko hola?”
– “Hiud ma gai-bhaisi lai khuwauna”
– “Yesto saaro pani gai-bhaisi le khanchhan ra?”
– “Khaanchhan”
– “Pakayera khuwaune ho?” (Vishnu Dai)
– “Ha ha, haina yettikai khuwaune!”


Here’s something about the meaning of Kosh (equals 3.33 kms), traditional measurement of distance, as told by R. P. Koirala. And there were 3 types of kosh:
– Rumale Kosh- Wet a handkerchief and start walking, when it dries up, the distance covered till then would count as one rumale kosh.
– Syaule Kosh- leafy branch
Pick up a fresh branch of a green and start walking, at the point where it dries up, you’ve travelled one syaule kosh
– Hatti kosh -300 step
As easy as the name suggests, it’s the distance covered by the elephant in 300 steps. 


So, that’s how my first hike in D2 went. Undoubtedly, it was a great experience.

Please click here to see  Satellite View of the Hike Location

Distinguished from others in Excellence,

Exposure of sufficiently qualified hands

A suitable moment

That was Fantabulous

The power greater than average

Pleasant drive thru

This is called Bhakunde Beshi

We all liked this pine forest-healthyyet calm

The visual percept of a region

May be for next exploration

Wishing for fulfillment

Contractor providing road with canal-good for him

Emotional admiration

Puffed up with vanity

Unknown challenge of Nature

Susceptible to the feelings

A fixed look eyes open wide

Please cook this for our midday meal

The dead end of the road at NEPALTHOK

It was wonderful walking there

They are in evidence

Target area for next time

Nepalthok is located at the confluence of ROSHI & KOSHI rivers

Taken away by the controlling influence of the place

OFF U GO SharadP

All made in Nature

Getting there!

Dhulikhel is behind far hill-Kavre District

Sharad looking at high-and-mighty Koshi

Nishchal wish to build a summer palace on this hill

Left Ramechhap Distric and Right Sindhuli Distric

Shangharsh and Bhanu

This was the village where father, Krishna P. Koirala of Girija P. Koirala came from

In the name of KPK daddy of GPK

Saving for cattle to feed them in winter

Local Sarifa

Play of Old Time

walking towards Dumja

RUDRA P. Koirala a friend of Matrika,bro of Girija

Rudra K. 84, telling us about his time spent with Koiral Family

According to Rudra this Hibiscus was planted by Krishna P. Koirala

This house is located at next to KP Koirala house

Leaving Dumja and her story behind

Washing away the sins with clothes on

The mighty Koshi separates Ramechhap and Sindhuli

Vishnu, Shangharsh, Bhanu and Sharadp

Niks in some mood of play a role

Running down here was fun

The earth, bull and house comprise same color

Nepalthok junction from distance

On the right along with Koshi other 33 Kms of road still left to be built

Jigsaw puzzle

Sharadp in action-step one

Action No. two



Looking back at Dumja

and FIVE

Looks like laughing Buddha without head-stone

Nearly completing the mission

Crossing small Roshi

Sometime not wearing shoes help us out

Pushing for celebration

Every job is a self-portrait of the person what he did.

23 thoughts on “Hiking from Nepalthok to Dumja

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  7. Hey guys,

    Very interesting report. But guys you missed all and all your visit to an important place that is “Kusheshwor Mahadev Temple”. In fact I never missed to visit the temple whenever I used to visit Nepalthok.


  8. Hey it’s wonderful picyure keep it up ????? Add more a picture near by dumja village Malanga, baseri,Ghyampatar,Arukhola and many more ok bye……”””””””””

  9. I am a reporter searching for informations on Nepalthok. Could you please add informations on Nepalthok’s history, ethnicity, population, elevation, accomodation, transportation , etc in your web page?

  10. Hi Chris,

    Thank you very much for appreciation and we are pleased to know that you have managed the time to go through hiking stuff.

    When I was captioning on images during that time I looked at the stone, it reminded me of Laughing Buddha’s potbelly stomach. That made me laugh and I gave reference Laughing Buddha.

    Here is a little saying about Laughing Buddha that I borrowed.

    The celestial Buddha named Hotei or Pu-Tai is best known as the jolly Laughing Buddha. In China, he is known as the Loving or Friendly One. He is based on an eccentric Chinese Ch’an (Zen) monk who lived over 1,000 years ago and has become a significant part of Buddhist and Shinto culture. Because of this monk’s benevolent nature, he came to be regarded as an incarnation of the bodhisattva who will be Maitreya (the Future Buddha). His large protruding stomach and jolly smile have given him the common designation “Laughing Buddha.”

  11. Regarding the new road (Kathmandu —> Terai)

    Recently to reach Bardibas (Situated in Mid Terai) we have to travel through Muglin, Naryan Ghat, Hetuda, patlaya, and then Bardibas. To reach there we have to travel all the way round to Narayani zone and have to travel around 400km. But if this new road is completed we can reach directly to Bardibas around 150 km. From this people can reach four zones (Janakpur, Sagarmatha, Koshi and Mechi) from Katmandu decreasing around 7 hours than of recent.

    This new road is built from two side Dhulikhel and Bardibas. Now mid point around 35 km is still to be made.

  12. Wonderful journey, beautifully documented.
    But I did not understand reference to laughing Buddha.
    Regarding the new road (Kathmandu —> Terai), how much time will this save?

  13. I feel really lucky to hike this route. Especially I could travel that Highway connection to Terai. I was amazed to see just 53 km far from Katmandu, that village had no electricity, neither drinking water system nor phone line. Hope it will develop soon due to newly built road.

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