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Recollections Rudra Pandey

This is the highest pass in the world a trekker could enjoy

I always wanted to do this one. This is the highest pass in the world a trekker could enjoy. It was not easy at all. My team had a few more days of acclimatization than I had and they were 10-20 years younger. I had a role to push these young guys to the limit and finish my trek from Manang to the Pass in three days. We left the beautiful village (of course with full of garlic smell) of Manang early Thursday morning and spend Thursday night at Yak Kharka. Friday night five of us spend few hours of the never ending torturous night at High Camp (approx 4900 M). I could not sleep at all and our team left for the pass 3:30 AM Saturday morning. We reached the Pass around 6:30 AM and I started my descend towards the base camp (Phedi at 4500M) after 15 minutes halt at the Pass. My team walked to the other side of the Pass targeting Jomsom as their next halt. I met Chris Kryder, Truman (Chris's friend), Mohana and Hitesh at the base camp and headed back to Manang village. Reached the old garlic village at around 7 PM. The 14 hours of walk made me very exhausted. But it was a BIG achievement. Loved it and suffered from a terrible headache almost constantly for three days. I am happy I could still do it. I like the number 5,416 and will never forget: 5 = team of five, 4 = those who were left at the base camp, 1 = the person who was left at Kathmandu, 6 = originally we had planned to be the team of six. I had a few learning from the trek: 1. We all can do it if we try and it is always good to go through the stress test like this one! 2. Be careful of altitude sickness when you push yourself beyond 2500 M mark. I had the slight sickness and I was able to overcome as I have enough experience to know the early symptom of it. 3. Walk slowly; you can get there. 4. Never try horse ride during downhill - it may kill you. As always, Pranayam helped me a lot. Particulalry, Anulom Bilom. I would not be able to overcome the massive constantly pounding headache without the Pranayam. I loved my tam all the way and they were amazing.

Bimal dai (Bhurtel buda) Manoj (maite), Abishesh ( Halal buda) and Hitesh dai ( Karki dai)

Kapil Pandey For me the Thorang La trek was a dream come true. Never seen snow in my life, got an opportunity to touch the snow with bare hands, climb the Annapurna 3 up to some meters. How can I forget the everyday breakfast, Garlic soup and Milk porridge with honey, Playing cards at night, our own mandle jokes, yak ko sukuti and chicken at manang. Thanks to Bimal dai (Bhurtel buda) Manoj (maite), Abishesh ( Halal buda) and Hitesh dai ( Karki dai). Lastly, we all know Nepal is beautiful but the difference lies in knowing and exploring. Thanks D2 for all this. Manoj Rokka "I don't have the words to explain about how i felt on my 10 days trekking to Thorong-La pass" but I am trying to share some of my experiences that i had during my journey to the world's highest pass. "Thorong-la" which was 5414 meters above the sea level and the highest elevation is situated in Annapurna Trekking route. The journey began from Besisahar. Day 1 From Besisahar we took a jeep to Chahare and reached there at around 6:30 PM. Then the Trek began at night, ForeHeadlight that we had as our trekking gear helped us to show the trail, single slip could take us to Marsyangdi river but we must had to walk, there was no option. Around 9:30 PM, we reached Sange, and spend night there. Day 2 Our destination for the second day was Dharapani. We started our journey from the temporary man made bamboo bridge over Marsyangdi river, this bridge was 'one way bridge', only single person can pass at a time,but no one knows how much load that bridge would be able to bear. On the way we had encountered countless number of Waterfalls, among them one is at Chamje "Rainbow Waterfall" which was really breath taking, a clear view of rainbow always reflects this waterfall, feels like looking at natural painting. And then, after walking more than 11 hours we reached the place called Dharapani.

we are traveling, where people from across 7 oceans are dying to visit?

Day 3 We were a bit tired but the excitement to be on the lap of a mountain always boosted us to move forward. That day our destination was to reach Bhartang, next stop after Chame. After half an hour of walking, Mt. Manasalu shown her face on our opposite side. Fellow trekkers are also started to seen on a way, most of them were foreigners, looking at them, a question came to my mind "Why most of the Nepalese are so interested to travel to foreign countries, when there exists place like theone we are traveling, where people from across 7 oceans are dying to visit?". After walking for 3 hours Mt. Annapurna II started to peep us hiding behind an unknown hill. We reached Chame at 2 PM. "Chame" the district headquarters of Manang is surrounded by Anapurna II, Manasalu and number of other snow-covered deserted hills. After Chame our next stop was Burtang, where we reached around 5:30 PM and decided to stay there for that night. Day 4 Our mission for that day was to reach Manang and catch Chris and his team. After walking for 2 hours, we reached on a place called "Dhukur Pohkari". We were all amazed with its beauty, "WOW!, what a combination of nature - a tiny pond on a middle, surrounded by jungle of pine trees along with himali flowers, above that a deserted giant hills with snow on a top and Mt. Annapurna II smiling on a morning sun light," - felt like we were in heaven. Leaving that wonder land behind, we continued our journey towards Pisang, a small village on the base of Mt. Pisang (6091M). Day 5 From Pisang after 2 hours ascent of a small hill, a view of Humde along with Manang's only one airport indicated us that we were reaching closer to Manang. Also new series of Mt. Annapurna Iv, Gangapurna and Tilicho were standing on a distance to welcome us. After having lunch at Humde we moved our feet towards our final destination of that day and reached Manang around 5:30 PM. Manang is a typically Tibetan village with numerous stupas, monasteries and oratories, which is situated at a height of 3500M. The altitude of the place we were traveling was increasing day by day, which made us a bit worried about altitude sickness. Even though we were taking lots of water and garlic soup as a precaution, there existed every possibility of getting Altitude Sickness at any time.

These beautiful scenery made us feel as if we were walking in our dream land

Day 6 After a day's rest at Manang, we headed next towards Yak Kharka (4200M). On that day as we walked pass an old Manang village, we witnessed wonderful smile of little 'manange' kids, group of yaks, Himali Cow(Chauri) and sheep, Mount Annapurna, Gangapurna and Tolicho on left and huge dry hills . These beautiful scenery made us feel as if we were walking in our dream land.Finally,we reached Yak Kharka at around 4 pm. Day 7 Thorong-la high camp: Although the walking distance was relatively shorter than those of previous days, we quite tired even after walking few steps because of the high altitude. .However, the breathtaking view that surrounded us was a welcome exchange to our tiredness. Mount Chuli and thorong-la are new mountain that we can see on a way to Thorong high camp. After reaching Thorong phedi(4500M)at around 1 PM we had lunch there and then we started to ascend towards thorong-high camp(4800M). The distance between Thorong phedi and high camp was merely 300 meters but because of high altitude it took almost 1 and half hour to cover that distance. Around 4 pm we reached high camp. We all had minor headache, probably due to extreme cold wind or altitude. That day one question was roaming around my mind "Can we do it", to which I swiftly answered "Yes we can". We all gathered for dining at the hotel in base camp and decided to start our final mission at 3 am next morning. Because of high altitude, we couldn't sleep well that night.

We were the first team to be on the pass that day

Day 8 The day to be on a top of Thorong-La pass, which is 5416 M and highest pass of Annapurna circuit. All of us woke up at 3 Am and got ready to ascend towards the pass. With the help of head lamp, we started our stride towards Thorong base camp. We had to walk on a small snow covered path. The temperature was probably between -3 to -5 degrees or less. The more we moved forward, the more we had breathing problem while the headach also became more sharper.Despite we were struggling with pain, this experience was nothing as compared to the experience of walking at the top of the mountain, with twinkling stars above on the dark sky, freezing temperature and pin drop silence. Gradually the stars on the sky started to fade away along with the blooming rays of light on the horizon, and clear signs of a new day and fresh air of Thorong-la pass was getting closer and closer. Finally we reached the pass at 6:15 Am. Luckily, we were the first team to be on the pass that day. My thanks goes to my fellow trekkers and our travel friends Pasang, Rajendra and Bhim .Without their help, our journey from Kathmandu to Thorong-la pass may not have been possible. "Thanks god for creating such a wonderland, and i know you are also amazed, like I am." Kathmanu to Thorong-la Pass to Pokhara (Approx. Time to Travel) Day 1: Kathmandu to Beshisahar (7 Hrs) - Bus Beshisahar to Chahare (2 Hrs) - Jeep Chahare to Sange (3 Hrs) - hike Day 2: Sange to Jagar (2 Hrs) -hike Jagar to Chamje (2 Hrs) -hike Chamje to Taal (2 Hrs) -hike Taal to Dharapani (4 Hrs) -hike Day 3: Dharapani to Temang (3 Hrs) -hike Temang to Chame (3 Hrs) -hike Chame to Bhurtang (3 Hrs) -hike Day 4: Bhurtang to Dhukur Pokhari (1 Hrs) -hike Dhukur Pokhari to Pisang (2 Hrs) -hike Pisang to Humde (3 Hrs) -hike Humde to Manang (3 Hrs) -hike Day 5: Rest Day at Manang Manang to Ice Lake (4 hrs) -hike Manang to Gangapurna lake (20 Mins) -hike Gangapurna lake to Annapurna IV base (2 Hrs) -hike Day 6: Manang to Gunsang (2:30 Hrs) -hike Gunsang to Ghenojang Khola (1 Hrs) -hike Ghenojang Khola to Yak Kharka (2 Hrs) -hike Day 7: Yak Kharka to Churi Leder (1 Hrs) -hike Churi Leder to Thorong Phedi (2 Hrs) -hike Thorong phedi to Thorong high camp(1 Hrs) -hike Day 8: Thorong High camp to Thorong Base camp (1 Hrs) -hike Thorong Base camp to Thorong Pass(2 Hrs) -hike Thorong Pass to Muktinaath (5 Hrs) -hike Muktinaath to Jomsom(3 Hrs) - Jeep Day 9: Jomsom to Beni (7 Hrs) - Bus Beni to Pokhara (4 hrs) -Bus Photograph Section Please click on the image to see its large version.

001 day1and2 At Besisahar	002 day1and2 Trek at night
003 day1and2 Marsangdi below	004 day1and2 Sange bazaar
005 day1and2 Temporary Bamboo bridge	006 day1and2 At your own risk
007 day1and2 Marching towards taal	008 day1and2 Free falling
009 day1and2 Watterfall on a way to Taal	010 day1and2 Rainbow water fall at Chamje
011 day1and2 Mid day at Chamje	012 day1and2 Mr pandey and Rokka
013 day1and2 How i look at picture	014 day1and2 Himalaya Transport
015 day1and2 Wel-come to Manang	016 day1and2 How far is taal
017 day1and2 Taal (entry point of Manang)	018 day1and2 day-1and2 Entering Manang
019 day1and2 Trekers on a pose	020 day1and2 Map of Dharapani
021 day3 Mount Manasalu	022 day3 Tihar fever is still on
023 day3 Waiting for breakfast	024 day3 Electricity for chame
025 day3 On the way to Chame	026 day3 Blue sky
027 day3 Stable on construction	028 day3 limps of Annapurna II above
029 day3 Information about Chame	030 day3 Leaving Chame
031 day3 Mane at chame	032 day3 Small village On a way to chame
033 day3 Pray for peace	034 day3 day-3 Mt. Manaslu
035 day3 Pasang (He knows everything about our treking rout)	036 day3 Helicopter towards Ktm
037 day3 3 Dudes	038 day4 A stiff hills behind Dhukur pokhari
039 day3 Tea house on a way to Chame	040 day3 Trail to Chame
041 day3 Annapurna II	042 day3 Ready for day 4
043 day3 Mount Annapurna from Bhurtang	044 day3 Manasalu
045 day4 Annapurna from humde	046 day4 Between trees
047 day4 Chauri's head on display	048 day4 Clouds over Annapurna
049 day4 Clouds over Annapurna 2	050 day4 D2ains on trail
051 day4 Deserted hills of manang	052 day4 Dhukur Pokhari
053 day4 Exiting Pisang	054 day4 From Humde to Manang
055 day4 Hills and mountains	056 day4 Humde Airport from Pisang
057 day4 Marching towards Pisang	058 day4 Mid day at humde
059 day4 Mt. Pisang a close up	060 day4 Mt. Pisang hiding behind
061 day4 Om mane peme hum	062 day4 Pisang
063 day4 Prayers	064 day4 Trail to Pisang
065 day4 Sunset on himalaya	066 day4 Tilicho peak
067 day4 Rest at Dhukur Pokhari	068 day4 Trekkers united
069 day4 Upper Pisang Village	070 day4 View from horse stable
071 day5 Annapurna 3	072 day5 Annapurna range
073 day5 Annapurna3 Gangapurna glacier and lake	074 day5 At 3900 meters
075 day5 barbarians throwing ice blocks down	076 day5 bhurtel Buda , Mandle Buda
077 day5 Bridge between Manang and gangapurna	078 day5 Chulu peak
079 day5 cloud formation above Gangapurna Glacier	080 day5 direction to ice lake
081 day5 From middle of Manang	082 day5 Gangapurna glacier
083 day5 Gangapurna Glacker up close	084 day5 Gangapurna Lake
085 day5 GangaPurna lake and the trail to yak kharka	086 day5 Gangapurna lake from the base of annapurna 3
087 day5 Going up there	088 day5 golden crown over ganga purna
089 day5 gotta go up there	090 day5 Halal Buda, maite, mandle buda
091 day5 Ice lake at 4500m elevation	092 day5 ice lake up close
093 day5 KapilP's wish fulfilled	094 day5 KarkiDai
095 day5 Marching up	096 day5 midway from the base 3900meters
097 day5 Peaks up north	098 day5 Prayer flags
099 day5 take my prayers to the Mountain Gods	100 day5 Towards the base of Annapurna 3
101 day5 Thorong-La still illudes	102 day5 the other side of Gangapurna
103 day5 Trekkers enjoying the view	104 day5 twilight at Manang village
105 day5 Upper manang in the distance	106 day5 What goes up musts come down
107 day5 wider view of the mountains up west	108 day5 wind horses
109 day6 Badalu ko ghumto le	110 day5 yanna rascala
111 day6 leaving Manang behind	112 day6 stopping by at upper manang
113 day6 Upper Manang	114 day6 Angels pass
115 day5 Yak skull as an offering	116 day6 Bhurtel Buda
117 day6 Bursting clouds	118 day6 Bursting clouds and prayers
119 day6 Small Monastary	120 day6 Clouds above Mt Tilicho
121 day6 Yak Kharka on a distance	122 day6 Standing behind yak kharka
123 day6 Peak at Khentang	124 day6 DSC04358
125 day6 DSC04360	126 day6 DSC04389
127 day6 Dusk at Yak Kharka	128 day6 evening stroll at 4200 meters
129 day6 frozen pond at Khentang	130 day6 go gunners
131 day6 Great wall of Manang	132 day6 Hitesh in action
133 day6 Hi5	134 day6 HiteshK, BimalK,KapilP
135 day6 Hotel on a way to Yak kharka	136 day6 House at Manang
137 day6 Just click	138 day6 Kapil ko jureli
139 day6 Karki dai and bhurtel buda on a way to Yak kharka	140 day6 Like a Smoke behind the mountain
141 day6 MohanaL	142 day6 Porters
143 day6 Prayer wheels at upper manang	144 day6 Rudra, Mohana and Pasang stopping by at Braka
145 day6 RudraP Posing	146 day6 Movie time
147 day6 Khentang lodge	148 day6 silhouette stand across the sky
149 day6 stopping by for a pose (rest)	150 day6 strange cloud formation
151 day6 the trail to Yak kharka	152 day6 thorang pass is still a couple of days walk away
153 day6 Tilicho peak	154 day6 towards yak kharka
155 day6 Wow !	156 day6 vegetation around manang
157 day6 unknown peak up close	158 day6 yak hotel at yak kharka
159 day7 Acclamitization before the final push	160 day7 Chris and Truman
161 day7 Trails to Thorong phedi	162 day7 DSC_9124
163 day7 DSC_9157	164 day7 DSC04428
165 day7 High Camp 4900 meters high	166 day7 High camp down below
167 day7 Kapil feels the snow	168 day7 Legs may not be 100 percent but the will is
169 day7 Mohana on the march	170 day7 Mohana reaches Thohrang Fedi
171 day7 resting at thorong phedi	172 day7 say cheese
173 day7 The sheer scale of the mountains	174 day7 The tea shop at this point was burnt down
175 day7 The trail from yak kharka	176 day7 Thorand fedi down below
177 day7 thoroang phedi at 4540 meters, base camp is another 400 meters up	178 day7 Thorong fedi
179 day7 tiredness shows	180 day8 dawn
181 day8 Dhawalagari Range from Thorong La pass	182 day8 Kapils wish
183 day8 Dawn at Thorong La pass	184 day8 ranges
185 day8 Finally at the highest pass in the world - 5416 Meters	186 day8 MR elated
187 day8 Rudra in action	188 day8 Rudra and Pasang the guide
189 day8 Victory	190 day8 Team D2 minus Rudra and Abi
191 day8 Him Kancha	192 day8 Trail to Muktinath
193 day8 Jomsom	194 day8 A village in a distance on the way to Muktinath
195 day8 Burning tea shop	196 day8 AbisheshJ
197 day8 Bimal can't wait go get down	198 day8 Dhawalagari range - seen from midway between Thorong pass and Muktinath
199 day8 DSC04464	200 day8 DSC04475
201 day8 Kapil punches the air	202 day8 Kapil with Pasang, Bhim and Rajendra
203 day8 Leader of the four	204 day8 Muktinath
205 day8 SDC10550	206 day8 Tea shop at Thorong pass
207 day9and10 somewhere between Pokahara and Beni	208 day9and10 way to Pokhara
209 day9and10 finally in Pokhara	210 day9and10 back to Kathmandu
211 The Royal Travel	212 The Pilot is grounded at Yak Kharka
213 Manang Meeting	214 Hunna ra Rudra dai
215 Towards Ice Lake	216 Rudra and Mohana at Good View
217 Have a little pause	218 May be thinking of establishing DR over here
219 By the Manang Monastery	220 Here i come
221 Hitesh & Mohana close by Annapurna IV	222 La La Mohana Chito janu paryo
223 Abhi to mai jawan hun	224 D2 Models
225 Mohanapurna	226 Hi is at Ice Lake
227 Chris and Rudra at self design	228 Aba chai nasakenay bhaiyo
229 Way to Thorang Phedi	230 Still he needs to measure the distance